Prince Roy's Realm
10/30/2005
Visit to KingFisher Brewery
10/25/2005
Book Review---Mao: The Unknown Story by Jung Chang and Jon Halliday
Of all my recent book purchases in Hong Kong, this was the one I most highly anticipated. It is impossible to understand modern China without dealing with the life and legacy of Mao Zedong. In fact, up until about five years ago I would have argued that Mao was the most important Chinese of the 20th Century. Now I believe Deng Xiaoping is the rightful heir of that mantle, having clearly passed by Mao, leaving him an (increasingly) distant second. Still, Mao retains an almost demigod status in the consciousness of many Chinese born before his death in 1976. Thus, adequately explaining this extremely complicated figure in the context of his times remains a vitally important necessity, now that China has re-emerged in a big way on the world stage.
Unfortunately, this book is a supreme disappointment. Full disclosure: I knew going in that Jung Chang would not be friendly towards Mao. I have no problem with that; a biographer is not required to like her subject. It is common knowledge, for instance, that Stephen Ambrose abhorred Richard Nixon. However, a biographer owes it to her subject, and most of all to her readers, to present an objective account of the person’s life (as Ambrose achieved). In this, the authors fail utterly. They present a wooden, one-dimensional picture of an enormously complex life, and readers could be forgiven if they came away from the book believing Mao was Lucifer incarnate. It is bad history, shoddily written, poorly edited, with a story that moves along in an agonized, plodding manner.
In this book, Mao appears more as caricature than human being, and the central thesis of the authors seems to be that Mao ‘meaned’ his way to the top, being a man without a single redeeming quality. Mao’s personal physician, Li Zhisui, wrote a tell-all book about his infamous patient, The Private Life of Chairman Mao, that portrays a more vivid, realistic, and interesting picture of the Chairman, warts and all. Li makes no secret of the fact that he believed Mao was a despot, but even he acknowledged Mao’s contributions to the Revolution, and what’s more, he presented Mao as a believable human being. Jung and Halliday would have us believe the Revolution succeeded in spite of Mao.
The authors draw several questionable conclusions in their attempt to shatter the Mao myth. For instance, they argue that Mao was merely a stooge of Stalin, and that Moscow, which had backed him all along, basically installed him to run the Chinese Communist Party (CCP). They also contend that practically every CCP leader despised Mao. This doesn’t stand to reason. First of all, in the days before Mao’s rise to the top, the CCP disciplined Mao on several occasions precisely because he often used passive aggressive tactics to avoid carrying out CCP directives (from Moscow) because he believed these were unsuitable for conditions in China. Second, if all Moscow desired was a bootlicking sycophant that fawned over every new directive from the Kremlin, there were several other candidates it would have chosen (in fact, did choose), including those who had actually lived in Moscow. Why would Stalin choose someone like Mao to head the CCP who had a demonstrated history of opposition to Moscow, and (if the authors are correct) was such an unpopular figure in his own party?
In their attempts to demonize their subject, the authors make the fatal error of propping up his opponents. In particular, they give kid glove treatment to Chiang Kai-shek, glossing over his own brutality and incompetence and the atrocities of the Nationalist government; for instance, in their account, the 1927 Shanghai White Terror purge on April 12 resulted in the deaths of ‘some’ trade union leaders and ‘probably’ more than 300 communists. They neglect to inform the reader that the actual number of dead in the city approached 40,000 and the criminal gangs allied with Chiang sold the wives and daughters of slain workers by the thousands into the city’s teeming brothels. Throughout the book they continually explain away Chiang’s shortcomings, failures and disastrous generalship as due to the treachery or ineptitude of others. His coterie was comprised of moles, secret agents, or outright traitors. Without a shred of hard evidence, they allege that one of Chiang’s most trusted generals, Hu Zongnan, was a Moscow agent, who deliberately lost scores of key battles to the CCP. Yet he inexplicably accompanied Chiang to Taiwan in 1949 and remained there the rest of his life. Their most unique assertion is that Chiang intentionally held back and permitted the CCP to escape to north China during the Long March, because of a secret deal he made with the Russians to guarantee the safety of his only son Chiang Ching-kuo, who was living in Russia as an exchange student and worker. Again, they can offer no evidence to back this up, except for the fact that Chiang failed to eliminate the Red Army on the Long March; since he failed to do so, it must be because he had an ulterior motive. With this logic, one wonders what his ulterior motive was in the Civil War of 1947-1949. The authors employ this tactic numerous times throughout the book, claiming that what they are revealing was ‘secret’ at the time and ‘remains so today’. A mighty convenient way to avoid proving their assertions.
One thing the book does have going for it, is the extensive use of Chinese-language primary and secondary sources. Here again, though, the authors seem to mischaracterize, if not outright distort, key assertions from what information the sources provide that is critical of Mao Zedong. This is true of quoted cites from already published works, which appear to be taken out of context. They then draw sweeping conclusions that are difficult to correlate with the quoted material. Their most explosive tidbits always happen to come from personal interviews; most of these, oddly enough, are informants the authors don’t identify (for the sources’ own safety, the authors claim). Maybe this is true, but the evidentiary value of the assertions suffers as a result. The good thing about the abundance of sources is that an academic who wishes to check the accuracy and context of cites should have no trouble doing so, except of course, for the scores of anonymous interviews. If this is done, it is my conviction that the authors’ conclusions and research will not stand up to critical academic scrutiny. I also hope that someone will contact the interviewees that did go public; I suspect they will claim that in many respects that the authors took their views out of context.
In sum: anyone waiting for the definitive biography of Chairman Mao will have to keep waiting. It is undeniable that Mao was a cruel tyrant. However, this book reveals nothing about the man and how he came to be that way. It completely underestimates his genuine abilities and ignores his very real accomplishments, all of which even his sternest Chinese critics and enemies concede. This book is nothing more than a clumsy hatchet job, and will appeal only to those with either no knowledge of modern Chinese history (if they can read through it), or those intent on seeing the CCP as the post-USSR bogeyman. If you really want to read this book, save your money: get a copy from a library, buy it used, or wait until it comes out in paperback. Coming soon, I will review what I consider to be everything this book was not, i.e. superlative biography: Jonathan Fenby’s Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek and the China He Lost.10/22/2005
top row, l-r: Chan (Zen) Stories; Records of the Grand Historian; The Analects; The Platform Sutra of the Sixth Patriarch; Essay on Vegetable Roots;
bottom row, l-r: Lao Zi; The Heart Sutra; Han Fei Zi; Mencius; Buddha Stories10/21/2005
2005 Semester At Sea The Semester At Sea vessel made its annual port of call to Chennai this week. For those of you who don’t know, this is about the most awesome overseas study program around. For over 100 days, students from various American universities have the opportunity to do a semester abroad on an oceangoing vessel. They live and have classes aboard the ship, which stops at perhaps a dozen countries around the world. How cool is that? Chennai is one of those stops. The program’s administrators asked some representatives from the US Consulate to address the students about Chennai, India in general, security issues, any other useful information we thought they should be aware of during their five-day stop. I went along to inform them about what types of assistance the American Citizen Services unit provides to people here. I kept driving home the point that they should not bring along their passports when they left the ship, but instead just take a photocopy. While it is easy enough for us to replace a lost passport, we can’t replace the visas of other countries that may be inside it, and for a trip like this, that could mean spending the rest of the voyage stuck on the ship. The vessel is nothing short of amazing. Here it is docked at Chennai:
10/16/2005
Early Halloween Below is a photo I took at the Wong Tai Sin 黄大仙 Taoist temple in Hong Kong on September 8. I didn't see anything unusual at the time; I just thought the old woman with her incense offering would make an interesting subject. It wasn't until after I returned to Chennai and transferred the photo to my computer that I noticed there was more to the picture than initially meets the eye. The most obvious is the image of a hat behind the old woman. If you look closely, you can also make out what appears to be the outline of a young woman's head, her hair, ear and nape of the neck. I shot this outdoors and it is not a reflection. I'm not saying what it is or what it isn't, only that I can't explain it:

10/15/2005
Goan Getaway The Goa trip came just at the right time. Things have been pretty insane around here lately. Actually, we are now moving into what is certainly the best time of year in Chennai. The monsoon has arrived, and we seem to be getting plenty of rain this year; way more than last year at this time, that’s for sure. There are two standouts about this time of year: #1, temps are down, way down. The highs merely climb into the mid 80s (30º C); I can live with that. Best of all, this is the major festival season in South India. Loads of holidays, beginning with the recent four-day weekend, are around the corner, and that suits me just fine. I will be a traveling fool from here on out, and want to see as much as possible in my last five months here. I’ve got one major trip planned after the New Year; the rest will be more modest, localized ventures. We flew out of Madras after work last Friday, overnighting in Bangalore. As much as I love the Leela Palace, I have to say standards have noticeably slipped since last year, while rates have more than doubled. I still maintain that it has the best beds in all of India, indeed of anywhere I’ve been in the world, but it’s probably not worth the price anymore. And Bangalore, when did the Moral Authority take over? What’s with all your clubs/pubs shutting down at 11:00pm? Things are bad enough in Chennai; we all look(ed) to Bangalore as a safe refuge, a place to where we could flee once the sanctimonious hypocrisy became too much to bear. But I guess Anita is right, the madness has infected even the most cosmopolitan city in South India. This made the getting to Goa even better. There are two main parts to Goa, North and South. Most of the exclusive five-star resorts are in South Goa, and the beaches are slightly less crowded, more secluded. North Goa is where the package tourists from Europe converge, along with backpackers and the Indian middle class tourist. It has a reputation, much deserved as it turns out, for being Party Central. We stayed at Baga in North Goa, at the Sun Village Resort, a three-star hotel. We got a pretty nice package deal that included all meals, unlimited free drinks all day (even alcohol)[WARNING: under no circumstances should you EVER drink Alcazar vodka, even if it's free. One word comes to mind: vile], complimentary shuttle to/from the airport, and two half-day tours. The rooms are nice-sized and adequate, and the swimming pool is decent. It’s close to the beach and the nightlife.
10/12/2005
More Good HK Eats I read somewhere that Hong Kong has over 6000 restaurants. That figure must climb way higher if you include the 'semi-official' places. These are joints that don't have proper restaurant licences, but do business as members-only 'clubs'. They seem to be perfectly legal, because they operate openly and even advertise. Spicygirl took me to one that is quite popular, and is one of the best lunch values you'll find in Hong Kong. It's called 'Zhou Mum's Sichuan' to the best of my memory. (I actually brought their takeout menu back with me to Madras, but now I can't find it: Spicygirl, please do the needful). It's located in-between Central and the Mid Levels, on a very popular street full of expat bars, but I saw very few Westerners in the place---always a good sign when it comes to the most authentic Chinese food! You have to know where it is to find it, because it's tucked away on the 5th floor of a non-descript lowrise. If you go here, the thing to get without a doubt is their signature specialty: 酸辣粉. They do have other items, but save yourself the trouble. Here it is:
Hot and Spicy Sweet Potato Noodles at Zhou Mum's
Zhou Mum's Sichuan Country Cookin'
Tim and Sue
Half-Eaten Spread
Spicygirl and PR Fight It Out10/06/2005
We’ve got a four-day weekend coming up and I’m headed off to Goa tomorrow along with some friends. It’ll be my only chance to check out what is probably the most famous beach destination in India, so I jumped at the opportunity. I’m falling way behind on posting about the trip to Hong Kong, so I’ll try to make a meager start here, and finish sometime after I get back next week. I arrived on September 3 and spent eleven days there. Spicygirl moved to HK at the end of July, and it’s been a difficult adjustment for the both of us. I’m just glad she’s got a good job with meaningful work in her field. Hong Kong is probably one of the most dynamic cities in the world, certainly one of my personal favorites. It has it all: food, scenery, nightlife, culture, international variety, you name it. After spending time there, it was really hard to return here, and I’m regretting more than ever the fact that I did not get that HK assignment. I take solace in the knowledge that Taipei will bring its own rewards, and it is also a city with a tremendous amount on offer. One thing that I most enjoyed this trip was shopping for books. HK is truly a book lover’s paradise, especially for China buffs. It used to be so for English language China resources, though that has changed: those are now as expensive, or more so than in the west. Even so, I still bit the bullet and bought three, which I hope to post reviews in the near future: Mao: The Unknown Story by Jung Chang and Jon Halliday; China Hands by James Lilley; and Generalissimo Chiang Kai-Shek and the China He Lost, by Jonathan Fenby. It’s still a great place for Chinese-language books, and I brought back a suitcase full. In fact, I was amazed at the range of Chinese language China-related books for sale. I don’t know the state of censorship in Hong Kong, and whether it’s enforced by Beijing or is self-imposed, but it is easy to find books scathingly critical of the CCP. Anyway, I have enough in the way of reading material to keep me occupied on the Goa beaches! I didn’t spend the whole time book hunting though:
10/03/2005
the little prince

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